Re: cleaning of filters

Posted by Prabhat, Prashant on
URL: http://confocal-microscopy-list.275.s1.nabble.com/cleaning-of-filters-tp3783387p3788547.html

** Commercial Response **

Please note that a protocol (including a video presentation) for cleaning all of Semrock filters is available at the following link:

http://www.semrock.com/TechnicalInformation/TN_Cleaning/

Sincerely,

Prashant

Prashant Prabhat, Ph.D.

Applications Specialist

Semrock

A Unit of IDEX Corporation

3625 Buffalo Road, Suite 6

Rochester NY 14624

Email: [hidden email]

Phone: [phone]

Toll Free: 866-SEMROCK

Fax: [phone]

http://www.semrock.com

 

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-----Original Message-----

From: Confocal Microscopy List [[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Keith Morris

Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 9:41 AM

To: [hidden email]

Subject: Re: cleaning of filters

Hi all,

In my youth I was always advised never to clean dichroic and similar optical coated filters unless you really have to, and that dust and even minor fingerprints generally don't affect the fluorescence image quality - i.e.

damaging the delicate filter coatings can degrade image quality more than the stuff you want to remove. Abrasive dust can be blown off, and I use a large hand puffer mostly now that filtered compressed air isn't available in the lab. Beware when using invertible 'aerosol can' dusters though as these can squirt the propellant all the filter surface [tried that with a Newvicon camera sensor years ago, didn't like it]. That said I have found sticky immersion oil and media type deposits all over such filter optics and this has required physical contact for removal. I tend to avoid water based products unless the deposit is likely to water soluble and perhaps fixed by solvents. I suppose for best results follow the makers instructions [Glen Spectra in this case]:

From: http://www.glenspectra.co.uk/glen/filters/clean.htm

"Cleaning of Optical Components

Note: You follow this advice at your own risk.

All optical elements are delicate and should be handled as carefully as possible. The glass and antireflective (AR) coated surfaces will be damaged by any contact, especially if abrasive particles have come into contact with the surface. In most cases, it is best to leave minor debris on the surface.

Use of oil-free dry air or nitrogen under moderate pressure is the best tool for removing excessive debris from an optical surface. In the case that the contamination is not dislodged by the flow of gas, please use the following protocol for cleaning the part:

1. Clean the part using an absorbent towel such as Kimwipes™, not lens paper. Use enough toweling so that solvents do not dissolve oils from your hands which can make their way through the toweling onto the coated surface.

2. Wet the towel with an anhydrous reagent grade ethanol.

3. The use of powder-free gloves will help to keep fingerprints off the part while cleaning.

4. Drag the trailing edge of the ethanol soaked Kimwipe across the surface of the component, moving in a single direction. A minimal amount of pressure can be applied while wiping. However, too much pressure will damage the component.

5. If the surface requires additional cleaning, always switch to a new Kimwipe before repeating the process.

The purpose of the solvent is only to dissolve any adhesive contamination that is holding the debris on the surface. The towel needs to absorb both the excessive solvent and entrap the debris so that it can be removed from the surface. Surface coatings on interference filters and dichroics are typically less hard than the substrate. It is reasonable to expect that any cleaning will degrade the surface at an atomic level. Consideration should be given as to whether the contamination in question is more significant to the application than the damage that may result from cleaning the surface.

In many cases, the AR coatings that are provided to give maximum light transmission amplify the appearance of contamination on the surface."

So as usual, it's a clear case of yes.....and no.

There are things like Newport cleaning tissues for 'drop & drag' cleaning coated optics [expensive but you don't need to use them much] http://search.newport.com/?q=cleaning

that look a bit like glorified lens tissues.

I tend to use clean soft tissues/cloths [depending on the problem & filter type/coatings, all with no 'rubbing'] with air blowing before and after.

Regards

Keith

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dr Keith J. Morris,

Molecular Cytogenetics and Microscopy Core, Laboratory 00/069 and 00/070, The Wellcome Trust Centre for Human Genetics, Roosevelt Drive, Oxford  OX3 7BN, United Kingdom.

Telephone:  [phone]

Email:  [hidden email]

Web-pages: http://www.well.ox.ac.uk/molecular-cytogenetics-and-microscopy

-----Original Message-----

From: Confocal Microscopy List [[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Carl Boswell

Sent: 08 October 2009 02:06

To: [hidden email]

Subject: Re: cleaning of filters

Thanks, Gary. My big concern is the worry over "soft" vs "hard" coatings, and all the warnings associated with the former. Apparently older filters are more delicate than the newer ones. I'm told that what I have are soft coatings. I guess I'll take the cautious approach and try a small area first.

Thanks to all for your input. If nothing else, it gives me courage to at least try something.

C

Carl A. Boswell, Ph.D.

Molecular and Cellular Biology

University of Arizona

520-954-7053

FAX [phone]

----- Original Message -----

From: "Gary Laevsky" <[hidden email]>

To: <[hidden email]>

Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 4:34 PM

Subject: Re: cleaning of filters

 

Hi All,

First, before I used First Contact, I spoke with a person that is very

prominent in the filter industry (trying to limit commercial conflict).

That person said the polymer does not damage their coatings.

I purchased the product. While reading this thread, I took out an emission

filter and put a big old thumbprint on it.

The polymer pulled it and all other impurities very nicely.

You do have to be very careful near the edges of the mount.

0 commercial interest, but very happy.

Best,

 

 

Gary Laevsky, Ph.D.

Imaging Application Specialist

 

 

Andor Technology

discover new ways of seeing

 

 

[hidden email]

Cell (774) 291 - 9992

Office (860) 290 - 9211 x219

Fax (860) 290 - 9566

Web: <A href="outbind://56/www.andor.com">www.andor.com

 

 

Please visit the following links for further information on the Andor

microscopy systems

 

 

http://www.andor.com/learning/movie_library/

please scroll down to the microscopy systems movie

 

 

http://www.andor.com/microscopy_systems/default.aspx

 

-----Original Message-----

From: Confocal Microscopy List [[hidden email]] On

Behalf Of Craig Brideau

Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 7:00 PM

To: [hidden email]

Subject: Re: cleaning of filters

I still swear by lens tissues over cotton swabs, mainly because the

lens tissues won't leave fibers behind. Most of the major optics

companies sell their 'house brand' of these and they're all usually

fairly good. I've used Edmund Optics and Thorlabs brands with good

success. Edmund even sells large 'sheet-sized' pieces in packs.

Craig

 

On Wed, Oct 7, 2009 at 2:40 PM, Dan Osborn <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Martin/ Deron,

> We use several of the Puritan products on protected coatings and

> mirrors: the same product as Deron listed, and 806 and 826 WC item

> numbers.

> The 869 was called out as the preferred product. And it true about the

> fibers, there is tendency for some to be left behind after cleaning, but

> usually a circular swabbing motion from the inside out can reduce this.

> There is also a fine polyester cleaning wipe used by some, but I do not

> have

> the catalog number on that.

> Best,

> Dan

>

>

> Dan Osborn

> Product Marketing Manager

>

> Omega Optical, Inc.

> Delta Campus

> Omega Drive

> Brattleboro, VT 05301

> Phone: Direct line: [phone] or Toll Free: (866)-488-1064

> Fax: [phone]

> Email: [hidden email]

> Web: <A href="outbind://56/www.omegafilters.com">www.omegafilters.com

>

>

>

>

>

> Celebrating 40 Years

>

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: Confocal Microscopy List [[hidden email]]

> On

> Behalf Of Deron Walters

> Sent: Wednesday, October 07, 2009 4:02 PM

> To: [hidden email]

> Subject: Re: cleaning of filters

>

> The most common Q tips have both a binder to hold the cotton together and

> a

> glue that attaches the cotton to the stick. Either of these could dissolve

> in solvents and redeposit on optics. However, there is a glue-free,

> binder-free swab that you can special order, the 869-WC from

> Puritan:

>

> http://www.puritanmedproducts.com/search/search_4.asp?id=336&item=869-WC

>

> I've used these with success on antireflection-coated singlets and

> doublets,

> although I haven't tested them on exposed filter coatings.

> One objection to these is that (lacking binder) they shed cotton fibers.

> In my experience those can be blown away with a stream of pressurized air.

>

> No financial interest.

>

> Deron Walters

> R&D Scientist, Physics

> Asylum Research

>

>

>> On Behalf Of Martin Wessendorf

>>

>> Dan Osborn wrote:

>>

>> > However, some grime does come off better in aqueous solvents, and it

>> > is OK to use a good breath of air on the filter surface and either a

>> > Qtip or wipe to clean it. A water dampened Qtip or cloth followed

> by

>> > a dry wipe should be fine as well.

>>

>> I had always heard that Q-tips have starch in them as a binder, and

> were

>> thus unsuitable for optics--that we should make our own with cotton

> wool

>> and an applicator stick. Not so?

>

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